Guide to Kegging Your Homebrew

• The Keg -- The bare body of the keg holds the liquid and is made of stainless steel. The top has an opening for the lid, threaded connections for the gas posts, and typically handle(s).
• The Lid -- This oval piece fits through the top of the keg's opening, with legs to prevent from falling past the opening. Typically they feature a pressure relief valve in the center of the part. Keg lids are interchangeable between other kegs (unless it is a less common keg like the "racetrack" lid). A large keg o-ring always accompanies the keg lid when putting in place. *Note: The keg legs are not there to hold the lid in place for a seal. Lids can only be sealed by applying pressure to the keg. This will seat the lid in place; only then should the legs be snapped into place.
• The "Gas-In" Post (Body Connect) -- This is the part that the White Gas-In Quick Connect fits on. The fitting is commonly identified by having either a star pattern and/or has marks along the post base. Usually required for removal or tightening is a 7/8" or 11/16" wrench.
• The "Beverage-Out" Post (Body Connect) -- This is the part that the Black Beverage-Out Quick Disconnect fits on. This will not have the star pattern or hash marks for identifying. Just plain.
• Universal Poppet -- Inside of each post requires a poppet. These are spring-loaded and the part that allows either gas in or the beer out when the Quick Disconnects are attached to the posts (body connects). They sit on top of the tip tube flanges for each Gas / Beverage side.
• Gas-In Dip Tube -- Typically 1 to 2 inch in length, these are stainless steel short tubes that form a seal with the help of a small o-ring that slides into the keg body through the threaded connections also used for the posts. This is how the gas enters the keg.
• Beverage-Out Dip Tube -- These are on the opposite side to the gas. These are longer dip tubes that will reach close to the keg's bottom for when the liquid is pushed out. They also help form a seal with a small o-ring above the threaded connections where the beverage post is connected. Made of stainless steel and can either be curved or straight.
• O-Rings -- There are 5 o-rings on each Cornelius keg. One for the lid, two for each post (body connect), and two for each dip tube. O-rings will occasionally need replacing if the keg was used for something other than beer if there is a noticeable odour (usually soda). It is a good idea to replace your O-rings every couple of years after that, depending on usage and storage. We recommend using keg lube whenever possible with o-rings; this helps prevent the o-rings from cracking and also makes putting the quick disconnects onto the keg easier.

Cleaning/Sanitizing

• Completely disassemble the keg by taking off the posts (body connects), dip tubes, o-rings, keg lid, etc., and put all these fittings into a solution of PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) and warm water to soak.
• If the keg is dirty from previous use or has any leftover residue, use some brewery cleaner such as PBW and some warm water and fill to at least halfway. (Mixture instructions for PBW are included with the product.)
• Use a soft scrub pad, brush, or cloth (not steel wool) to clean the inside and outside, paying close attention to the hidden areas to ensure they are thoroughly cleaned.
• Clean and inspect all pieces such as o-rings, poppets, posts, etc. for signs of wear and tear or breakage. Replace if needed.
• Drain and rinse the keg as well as all small parts.
• Reassemble the keg.